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Care ingredients

80 ingredients on sunscreen, skincare, hair and toothpaste labels

What each active does, at what strength, and how strong the evidence is — the same idea as the supplement ingredient pages, for the things you put on your skin, hair and teeth.

Sunscreen filters

AvobenzoneStrong evidence

The main long-wave UVA filter in US sunscreens. Very effective but breaks down in sunlight unless the formula stabilises it.

BemotrizinolStrong evidence

A photostable broad-spectrum filter used outside the US for 25 years. In June 2026 it became the first new US sunscreen active in about two decades (up to 6%).

BisoctrizoleStrong evidence

A particle-form organic filter covering UVB through long-wave UVA. Photostable and barely absorbed; allowed in the EU at 10% but not approved in the US.

Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB)Strong evidence

A photostable long-wave UVA filter used in Europe and Asia as an alternative to avobenzone. Not approved in the US; a phthalate impurity in some batches is now capped in the EU.

HomosalateModerate evidence

A weak UVB filter used in high amounts in many US sunscreens. Well absorbed and weakly hormone-active in lab tests; the EU now limits it to 7.34% in face products only.

OctinoxateStrong evidence

A long-used UVB filter, and part of the sunscreen that cut skin cancer in the landmark trial. Unstable next to avobenzone; banned in Hawaii over reef concerns.

OctisalateModerate evidence

A weak UVB filter used mainly to top up SPF and help dissolve other filters. Low allergy risk; absorbed, like most organic filters.

OctocryleneStrong evidence

UVB filter mostly used to stabilise avobenzone. Effective, but can break down to benzophenone in the bottle and occasionally causes photoallergy.

OxybenzoneModerate evidence

The most absorbed and most debated sunscreen filter: effective, but a known photoallergen, restricted in the EU and banned in Hawaii. Evidence of human harm is lacking.

Titanium dioxideStrong evidence

Mineral UV filter in sunscreens and a white pigment in toothpaste. Strong on UVB, weaker in long-wave UVA; the concerns are about inhaling or swallowing it, not skin contact.

Zinc oxideStrong evidence

A mineral filter covering UVB and UVA, including long-wave UVA1. Photostable, rarely allergenic, and one of only three filters the FDA currently calls safe and effective.

Retinoids

Vitamins

Exfoliating acids

Antioxidants

Hydrators

Soothing agents

Plant extracts

BakuchiolLimited evidence

A plant compound sold as a gentle retinol alternative. One small head-to-head trial found it matched 0.5% retinol with less irritation; the evidence is thin.

Calendula (marigold) extractLimited evidence

A marigold extract in balms and body care for soothing and minor skin damage. Radiotherapy trials conflict: one large trial favoured it, another found no difference.

Centella asiatica (cica)Limited evidence

'Cica', the Korean-skincare staple. Its triterpenes aid wound healing in studies; for everyday redness and barrier repair the evidence is small but encouraging.

Chamomile extractWeak evidence

A traditional soothing flower extract in skin and hair products. Mildly anti-inflammatory in lab work, little trial evidence, and an allergen for daisy-family allergy.

Eucalyptus oilNo real evidence

A fresh, cooling scent in body washes, lotions and balms. It adds fragrance and a tingle, not a skin benefit, and is toxic if swallowed.

Flaxseed extractNo real evidence

A slippery seed mucilage used for light hold and curl definition, and as a moisturising film. No health effects.

Grapefruit extractNo real evidence

A citrus extract used for scent and a 'clarifying' image in shampoos and cleansers. No evidence of a health or hair benefit.

Lavender oilWeak evidence

Mostly a fragrance. There's no good evidence it treats skin, and air-oxidized lavender oil forms strong contact allergens.

Lemon peel oilNo real evidence

A citrus flavouring in toothpaste and mouthwash. Adds taste; no oral-health effect has been shown.

Licorice root extractWeak evidence

A soothing, mildly brightening plant extract. Its compounds calm redness and slow pigment in the lab; human evidence at cosmetic doses is small.

Peppermint oil and mentholWeak evidence

Mint gives toothpaste its taste and shampoos their tingle via cooling receptors. It freshens; hair-growth claims rest on one mouse study.

Rosemary oil and extractWeak evidence

Popular as 'natural minoxidil' on the strength of one small trial with no placebo group. Pleasant scent; hair-growth benefit unconfirmed.

Turmeric extractWeak evidence

A spice extract whose curcumin is anti-inflammatory in the lab. Evidence on skin is early and small, and it can stain skin yellow.

Willow bark extractWeak evidence

A plant extract sold as 'natural BHA'. Its salicin is not meaningfully converted to salicylic acid in skin; expect a mild soothing extract, not an acne treatment.

Proteins & peptides

Fluorides

Cleaning abrasives

Whitening agents

Sensitivity relief

Antimicrobials

Other actives

Arbutin (alpha-arbutin)Limited evidence

A hydroquinone-glucose compound that slows pigment production. Gentler than hydroquinone and allowed in cosmetics, with modest, small-study evidence.

Azelaic acidModerate evidence

A prescription treatment for acne, rosacea and dark marks at 15-20%. Cosmetic serums use about 10% or less, where it is much less studied.

Bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleateLimited evidence

The patented 'bond-building' active in popular repair treatments. Hair does look and feel better; the claim that it rejoins broken bonds inside hair is unproven.

CaffeineWeak evidence

Stimulates hair follicles in a dish and reaches them from a shampoo, but proof that caffeine products slow hair loss in people is thin. Eye-cream claims are weaker still.

Ferments and ferment lysatesWeak evidence

Liquids left after yeast or bacteria ferment, sold as essences and 'probiotic' skincare. Hydrating; beyond that, evidence is small and mostly manufacturer-run.

Kaolin clayWeak evidence

A soft white clay that soaks up surface oil in masks and adds body to toothpaste. It works physically; it doesn't draw out toxins or shrink pores.

PhytosphingosineWeak evidence

A skin-identical lipid from the ceramide family, antimicrobial and calming in lab tests. Usually a supporting ingredient in barrier creams.

PropolisWeak evidence

A resin bees collect from plants, used for blemishes and 'glow'. Antimicrobial in the lab, little tested on skin, and a well-documented contact allergen.

Royal jellyNo real evidence

A bee secretion marketed for hair growth and nourishment. There is no human evidence, and the one direct mouse study found it made hair thinner.

SteviaNo real evidence

A plant-based sweetener used in some 'natural' toothpastes. It makes the paste palatable without feeding decay bacteria; it has no oral-health effect of its own.

Tranexamic acidLimited evidence

A bleeding drug repurposed for melasma and dark spots. Topical 2-5% shows promise in small trials; the oral prescription form is better studied.

Zinc PCAWeak evidence

Zinc bound to a natural moisturizing molecule, sold for oily and blemish-prone skin. Topical zinc's acne evidence is modest and mostly in combinations.