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Plant extracts

Centella asiatica (cica)

Also listed as cica, gotu kola, madecassoside, asiaticoside, asiatic acid, madecassic acid

'Cica', the Korean-skincare staple. Its triterpenes aid wound healing in studies; for everyday redness and barrier repair the evidence is small but encouraging.

Limited evidence

What it is

Centella asiatica (gotu kola) is a creeping plant long used on wounds. Its active compounds are four triterpenes — madecassoside, asiaticoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid — which in lab and animal work increase collagen production and dampen inflammation. Products list either the whole extract or one of these purified compounds.

Marketed as 'cica', it is sold for irritated, red or over-exfoliated skin and for barrier repair. Those uses fit its lab profile, but most human studies test it in combination with other actives.

How strong is the evidence?

Limited evidence

Wound and scar studies (often older and small) and lab work support its activity. Cosmetic trials mostly test mixtures — a 6-month double-blind study of 5% vitamin C plus 0.1% madecassoside improved wrinkles and firmness, but can't isolate centella's share. Good placebo-controlled trials of centella alone for redness or sensitivity are lacking.

What it's used for, checked

Calming irritated or red skin

Mixed

Anti-inflammatory in lab work; human evidence mostly from combination products.

Barrier repair after procedures or over-exfoliation

Mixed

Plausible and widely used; few controlled trials.

Wounds and scars

Mixed

Supported by older clinical and lab work; results vary by preparation.

Wrinkles

Unproven

Only tested alongside vitamin C.

Who should be careful

  • Well tolerated; allergic contact dermatitis is reported but uncommon.
  • 'Soothing' products can still contain fragrance or essential oils — check the full ingredient list.

The studies

Every citation is checked against its PubMed record.

  1. Centella asiatica in cosmetology.
    Bylka W, Znajdek-Awiżeń P, Studzińska-Sroka E, Brzezińska M · Postepy Dermatologii i Alergologii · 2013 · Review

    Reviews centella's triterpenes (asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic and madecassic acids), their pro-collagen and anti-inflammatory actions, and their use for wounds, scars, burns, photoaging, cellulite and stretch marks.

  2. Clinical, biometric and structural evaluation of the long-term effects of a topical treatment with ascorbic acid and madecassoside in photoaged human skin.
    Haftek M, Mac-Mary S, Le Bitoux MA, Creidi P, Seité S, Rougier A, et al. · Experimental Dermatology · 2008 · RCT

    20 women with photoaged skin used 5% vitamin C with 0.1% madecassoside for 6 months in a randomized double-blind study; wrinkles, firmness, roughness and hydration improved, with a better elastic fibre network on biopsy. The design can't separate the two ingredients.