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Vitamins

Niacinamide

Also listed as nicotinamide, vitamin B3

A form of vitamin B3 that, at 2-5%, modestly evens blotchy tone, cuts oiliness and supports the skin barrier. Well tolerated by most skin.

Moderate evidenceTypical strength: 2-5% leave-on

What it is

Niacinamide is the amide form of vitamin B3. In skin it feeds the NAD cofactors cells use for energy and repair, and it nudges the outer layer to make more ceramides and other barrier lipids. It is water-soluble, stable in most formulas and rarely irritating, which is why it turns up in everything from toners to body lotions.

It is not an exfoliant or a retinoid, so it works slowly: most trials run 4-12 weeks and measure small, real changes — fewer blotches, a less oily T-zone, better-hydrated skin. Serums at 10% or more are common, but the controlled studies used 2-5%, and higher strengths mainly raise the odds of stinging and redness.

How strong is the evidence?

Moderate evidence

Several randomized, vehicle-controlled split-face trials (roughly 20-100 people, 4-12 weeks) found 2-5% niacinamide reduced hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, sebum and fine lines. Most were run or funded by one large skincare maker, the effects are modest, and few trials compare it with established drugs. A 2020 Cochrane review rated the acne evidence low quality.

What it's used for, checked

Dark spots and uneven tone

Holds up

5% reduced hyperpigmentation versus vehicle within 4-8 weeks in controlled trials. It blocks pigment transfer to skin cells rather than melanin production, so results are gradual and modest.

Redness and barrier support

Holds up

Raises ceramide production and reduced red blotchiness in trials; a sensible choice for dry or easily irritated skin.

Oily skin and shine

Mixed

2% lowered sebum output in a Japanese trial; in a US trial it reduced surface oil but not sebum output.

Acne

Mixed

A 4% gel did about as well as a clindamycin gel in an older trial, but a Cochrane review rated the acne evidence low quality. Use it alongside proven acne treatments, not instead of them.

Fine lines

Mixed

One 12-week split-face trial at 5% found small improvements; the evidence is far weaker than for retinoids.

Shrinking pores

Unproven

Pores can look smaller when skin is less oily, but pore size itself has not been a well-measured trial outcome.

Works well with

  • Retinoids — may make them easier to tolerate
  • Sunscreen — essential in any dark-spot routine
  • Vitamin C — the old warning that the two cancel out came from high-temperature lab chemistry, not skin

Who should be careful

  • Serums at 10% and above cause stinging, redness or breakouts in some people; switch to a 2-5% product if that happens.
  • No specific pregnancy concerns are known for topical use.

The studies

Every citation is checked against its PubMed record.

  1. Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance.
    Bissett DL, Oblong JE, Berge CA · Dermatologic Surgery · 2005 · RCT (split-face)

    50 women with photoaged skin applied 5% niacinamide to one side of the face and vehicle to the other for 12 weeks; niacinamide reduced fine lines, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness and sallowness and improved elasticity. Run by a skincare manufacturer.

  2. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer.
    Hakozaki T, Minwalla L, Zhuang J, Chhoa M, Matsubara A, Miyamoto K, et al. · British Journal of Dermatology · 2002 · Laboratory study + RCTs

    Niacinamide did not block melanin production but inhibited pigment transfer to skin cells by 35-68% in a lab model; in 18 people using 5% and 120 people using 2% with sunscreen, it reduced facial hyperpigmentation versus vehicle within 4 weeks.

  3. The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production.
    Draelos ZD, Matsubara A, Smiles K · Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy · 2006 · RCT

    In 100 Japanese adults, a 2% niacinamide moisturizer lowered sebum excretion rate versus placebo over 4 weeks; in a 6-week split-face study of 30 white adults it reduced surface oil but not sebum excretion rate.

  4. Topical azelaic acid, salicylic acid, nicotinamide, sulphur, zinc and fruit acid (alpha-hydroxy acid) for acne.
    Liu H, Yu H, Xia J, Liu L, Liu GJ, Sang H, Peinemann F · Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews · 2020 · Systematic review

    49 trials (3,880 people): azelaic acid is probably less effective than benzoyl peroxide and about as effective as tretinoin for acne; evidence for salicylic acid, nicotinamide and alpha-hydroxy acids was low or very low quality, from small head-to-head trials, and no conclusions were reported for zinc or sulphur.