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Hydrators

Panthenol (provitamin B5)

Also listed as vitamin B5, dexpanthenol, D-panthenol

Provitamin B5: a humectant that helps skin hold water and recover from irritation. Very well tolerated, with small but consistent studies.

Limited evidenceTypical strength: 0.5-5%

What it is

Panthenol is converted in skin to pantothenic acid (vitamin B5), part of coenzyme A, which cells use to make barrier lipids. It is also a humectant in its own right, penetrates skin well and very rarely irritates. Dexpanthenol is its active form; 'vitamin B5' on a lotion label usually means panthenol.

You'll find it in body lotions, lip and nappy balms, after-sun and hair products, typically at 0.5-5%.

How strong is the evidence?

Limited evidence

Small controlled studies show dexpanthenol creams speed barrier recovery after irritation, increase hydration and reduce redness compared with the same cream without it. Reviews also report benefits for minor wounds and irritated skin, though much of the research is linked to makers of dexpanthenol products.

What it's used for, checked

Hydrating dry skin

Holds up

Improves stratum corneum hydration and reduces water loss.

Recovery from irritation

Holds up

Sped barrier repair and reduced redness versus vehicle after detergent irritation.

Minor wounds and nappy rash

Mixed

Supportive studies, mostly small.

Works well with

  • Ceramide or glycerin moisturizers
  • Retinoids — may ease the dryness

Who should be careful

  • Contact allergy is rare; stop if a rash appears.

The studies

Every citation is checked against its PubMed record.

  1. Topical use of dexpanthenol in skin disorders.
    Ebner F, Heller A, Rippke F, Tausch I · American Journal of Clinical Dermatology · 2002 · Review

    Reviews topical dexpanthenol: it improves stratum corneum hydration, reduces water loss, speeds epidermal regeneration in wounds and eases irritation symptoms, with minimal risk of irritation or sensitization.

  2. Dexpanthenol enhances skin barrier repair and reduces inflammation after sodium lauryl sulphate-induced irritation.
    Proksch E, Nissen HP · Journal of Dermatological Treatment · 2002 · Controlled experimental study

    After detergent (SLS) irritation, a dexpanthenol cream sped barrier repair and increased hydration more than its vehicle, and reduced redness, which the vehicle did not.