Plant extracts
Licorice root extract
Also listed as Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, glabridin, liquiritin
A soothing, mildly brightening plant extract. Its compounds calm redness and slow pigment in the lab; human evidence at cosmetic doses is small.
What it is
Licorice root extract contains glabridin, which inhibits tyrosinase and calms inflammation, and liquiritin, which disperses melanin. It is used in brightening and anti-redness products, usually at low levels among other actives, and extract strength varies widely between suppliers.
Licochalcone A, behind many anti-redness claims, comes mainly from a related licorice species; it is not what 'Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract' on a label reliably contains.
How strong is the evidence?
Weak evidenceLab studies support anti-pigment and anti-inflammatory activity. Human data are a few small studies, mostly of concentrated purified licorice compounds rather than the low-dose extracts in most products.
What it's used for, checked
Dark spots and uneven tone
UnprovenGood lab evidence; thin human evidence at cosmetic doses.
Redness and irritation
UnprovenAnti-inflammatory in lab studies; not well tested alone in people.
Who should be careful
- Eating large amounts of licorice can raise blood pressure; that is not a known risk from skin products.
- Plant extracts can cause contact allergy; patch test if your skin is reactive.