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Other actives

Arbutin (alpha-arbutin)

Also listed as alpha-arbutin, beta-arbutin

A hydroquinone-glucose compound that slows pigment production. Gentler than hydroquinone and allowed in cosmetics, with modest, small-study evidence.

Limited evidenceTypical strength: Up to 2% on the face

What it is

Arbutin is hydroquinone joined to a sugar. It inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme that makes melanin, more weakly than hydroquinone and without its toxic effect on pigment cells. Alpha-arbutin is a manufactured form that is more potent in lab tests; plain (beta-) arbutin occurs naturally in bearberry leaves.

The EU's scientific safety committee considers alpha-arbutin safe up to 2% in face creams and 0.5% in body lotions, provided free hydroquinone stays at trace levels. Arbutin can release hydroquinone as a product ages or on skin, which is why those limits exist.

How strong is the evidence?

Limited evidence

Lab studies consistently show it inhibits melanin production. Clinical evidence is a scattering of small trials, often of combination products, showing modest lightening; rigorous placebo-controlled trials of arbutin alone are few.

What it's used for, checked

Dark spots and uneven tone

Mixed

Modest lightening in small studies, often combined with other brighteners.

Melasma

Mixed

Some small positive studies; weaker than prescription options.

A safe hydroquinone alternative

Mixed

Gentler, but it can release some hydroquinone; stick to regulated strengths.

Works well with

  • Niacinamide
  • Sunscreen
  • Vitamin C derivatives

Who should be careful

  • Keep to 2% or less on the face and 0.5% on the body; old or heat-exposed products may contain more free hydroquinone.
  • Contact dermatitis is rare.
  • It hasn't been studied in pregnancy.

The studies

Every citation is checked against its PubMed record.

  1. Arbutin as a Skin Depigmenting Agent with Antimelanogenic and Antioxidant Properties.
    Boo YC · Antioxidants · 2021 · Review

    Reviews arbutin's anti-pigment mechanism, clinical studies alone and in combination, and safety: dermatitis is rare, but caution is advised because hydroquinone may be generated during product use.