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Other actives

Propolis

Also listed as bee glue, propolis extract

A resin bees collect from plants, used for blemishes and 'glow'. Antimicrobial in the lab, little tested on skin, and a well-documented contact allergen.

Weak evidence

What it is

Propolis is the sticky resin bees gather from tree buds to seal their hives. It is rich in flavonoids and caffeic acid esters, with antibacterial, antifungal and antioxidant activity in lab tests. Korean skincare uses propolis extracts in serums and toners for blemish-prone and dull skin.

Its composition varies with region and plant source, so two 'propolis extracts' can differ considerably.

How strong is the evidence?

Weak evidence

Clinical evidence for propolis in cosmetic skincare is sparse — mostly lab work and small studies in wound care. Its allergy potential, by contrast, is well documented, with many reported cases of allergic contact dermatitis.

What it's used for, checked

Blemishes and acne

Unproven

Antibacterial in lab tests; no good trials of propolis skincare.

Soothing and 'glow'

Unproven

Marketing language without supporting trials.

Who should be careful

  • A known contact allergen; avoid it if you have reacted to propolis, beeswax, balsam of Peru or fragrance before.
  • Patch test first if you have sensitive skin or bee-product allergies.

The studies

Every citation is checked against its PubMed record.

  1. Propolis: a review of properties, applications, chemical composition, contact allergy, and other adverse effects.
    de Groot AC · Dermatitis · 2013 · Review

    Reviews propolis's composition, biological properties and uses, and catalogues its contact allergy: sensitizing potential, products causing reactions, frequency, cross-reactions and the specific allergens involved.