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Personal care · product guide

Exfoliant & scrub: does it work?

Loosens dead surface cells for smoother, brighter skin. Chemical exfoliants have modest trial evidence; overdoing any exfoliant damages the barrier.

Moderate evidenceReviewed September 2026

What it is

Exfoliants remove or loosen the outermost layer of dead skin cells. Chemical exfoliants dissolve the bonds between cells: alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic, lactic and mandelic acid work on the surface; salicylic acid (a BHA) is oil-soluble and gets into pores, which is why it suits acne and blackheads; polyhydroxy acids such as gluconolactone are gentler. Physical exfoliants are scrubs, grains and brushes.

On the body, urea, lactic acid and salicylic acid lotions are often gentler and more effective than gritty scrubs for rough, bumpy skin (keratosis pilaris) and thick heels. The actives pages cover glycolic acid and salicylic acid in detail.

How strong is the evidence?

Moderate evidence

A 22-week double-blind trial found 8% glycolic and 8% lactic acid creams modestly improved sun-damaged skin compared with a plain cream. Salicylic acid is an approved non-prescription acne active with a conditional recommendation in the 2024 US acne guideline. A randomized study showed 10% glycolic acid increases UV sensitivity, reversing within a week of stopping. Evidence for scrubs is thin, and none of the trials are long.

The claims you'll see, checked

Smoother, brighter skin

Holds up

AHAs have vehicle-controlled evidence for modest improvement in roughness, sallowness and mottled pigment.

Clears blackheads and acne

Holds up

Salicylic acid 0.5 to 2% helps mild comedonal acne; benzoyl peroxide and retinoids are stronger options.

Reverses aging like a retinoid

Mixed

Effects are smaller and more superficial than retinoids'; exfoliants mainly improve texture and tone.

Daily scrubbing keeps skin clear

False

Frequent scrubbing and stacked acids break down the barrier and cause dryness, redness and irritation.

Exfoliated skin needs no extra sun care

False

Glycolic acid measurably increases sunburn damage; the effect lasts about a week after stopping.

What to look for

  • A chemical exfoliant with a stated percentage: glycolic or lactic acid up to about 10% for home use, salicylic acid 0.5 to 2%.
  • Lactic acid, mandelic acid or gluconolactone if your skin is sensitive; they are gentler than glycolic acid.
  • Salicylic acid if you have oily skin, blackheads or acne.
  • For rough, bumpy arms or thick heels, a lotion with urea, lactic acid or salicylic acid rather than a harsh scrub.
  • If you prefer a scrub, fine, rounded particles rather than crushed shells or pits.

What to skip

  • High-strength 'peeling solutions' (25 to 30% acid) used at home without experience; save strong peels for a clinician.
  • Daily scrubs, stiff brushes and exfoliating mitts on the face.
  • Walnut-shell and other jagged scrubs, which can cause micro-tears.
  • Combining several acids with a retinoid in one routine.

How to use it

  • Start 2 to 3 times a week, in the evening, on nights you don't use a retinoid.
  • A couple of times a week is a sensible ceiling for most people.
  • Follow with moisturizer, and with sunscreen the next morning.

Who should be careful

  • Wear broad-spectrum sunscreen daily while using acids and for a week after stopping.
  • Don't exfoliate broken, sunburned or eczema-affected skin; for eczema-prone skin, often the right amount is none.
  • Stop and let skin recover if you get stinging, persistent redness or a shiny, tight surface.
  • Salicylic acid over large body areas is not advised in pregnancy or for young children without clinical advice, and people with aspirin allergy should ask a clinician first.

The studies

Every citation is checked against its PubMed record.

  1. Topical 8% glycolic acid and 8% L-lactic acid creams for the treatment of photodamaged skin. A double-blind vehicle-controlled clinical trial
    Stiller MJ, Bartolone J, Stern R, Smith S, Kollias N, Gillies R, Drake LA · Archives of Dermatology · 1996 · RCT (vehicle-controlled)

    74 women with moderately photodamaged skin used 8% glycolic acid, 8% lactic acid or plain cream twice daily for 22 weeks. At least one grade of facial improvement occurred in 76% and 71% of the acid groups versus 40% on vehicle; the authors called the effect modest.

  2. Topical glycolic acid enhances photodamage by ultraviolet light
    Kaidbey K, Sutherland B, Bennett P, Wamer WG, Barton C, Dennis D, Kornhauser A · Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine · 2003 · RCT (double-blind)

    In 29 adults, four weeks of 10% glycolic acid increased UV-induced sunburn cells and lowered the dose needed to redden skin. The sensitivity was gone a week after stopping.